Edinburgh to Portsmouth

Leith is a buzzing port district, home to hip creatives and longtime locals.

Exploring the sandstone cliff faces of the Isle of Noss will reveal ledges loaded with gannets puffins guillemots shags kittiwakes Razorbills fulmars and Great Skuas. The island was recognized as a National Nature Reserve in 1955 and has one of Europe’s largest and most diverse seabird colonies. Sheep have grazed the inland hillsides of Noss since the late 1800s and early 1900s when around twenty people lived on the island to manage the sheep farm. Along with the sheep shaggy Shetland ponies graze the windblown slopes of Noss.

Adrift between the Scottish and Norwegian coasts the craggy Shetland Islands form the most northerly point of the British Isles. Sprawling across 100 islands connected by sandy bridges and crisscrossing ferries explore the highlights of this scenic archipelago outpost. Look out over dramatic coastline from atmospheric Iron Age towers. Sweeping windswept beaches and wisps of sand connect islands and rugged cliffs - stand back as the sounds of the waves smashing against the shore and calling gulls fills the air. The islands are also home to some of the most adorable four-legged creatures you’ll ever meet the diminutive and wavy-fringed Shetland Ponies who roam the hills and reach a maximum size of 42 inches. Don't be fooled though they are amongst the strongest and toughest of all breeds. Their existence here points to Viking history as local horses bred with ponies brought ashore by Norse settlers creating the lovable crossbreed that is an icon of these islands today. The towering Broch of Mousa is perhaps Europe’s best-preserved Iron Age building - and one of the Shetland's finest brochs - a series of round stone towers believed to have been constructed around 100 BC. Seals and birdlife ensure that the isolated islands are always well-populated with life - and you can embark on hikes to discover their coastal homes. Lerwick is the islands’ capital and there's a charming welcome on offer as you arrive before the waterfront of stone buildings which cascade down to the shore.

Modern Stromness hasn’t changed dramatically since the turn of the last century and stone houses still stand over cobbled streets, but Orkney’s main historic claim is the rich legacy of Neolithic sites and artefacts found here. It was proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 under the title “Heart of Neolithic Orkney.” The most famous of these monuments is probably the settlement of Skara Brae, once a small village of 50-100 people living together near the shores of Skaill Bay. Occupied from roughly 3180 BCE-2500 BCE, the site has given us invaluable insight into the daily lives of our forebears, and Skara Brae forms the hub of a network of Neolithic sites across the Orkneys, many of which are still being excavated. Other sites include the standing stones of the Ring of Brodgar, situated on an isthmus between the sea loch of Stenness and the freshwater loch of Harray.

Cliffs of tall hexagonal columns create a sensational landscape at the Shiant Islands, especially when viewed from the sea. The cliffs of six-sided rock columns look like the cross-section of an enormous honeycomb. The rock formations were formed when molten volcanic magma cooled very slowly underground. Millions of years of erosion has exposed the six-sided columns to the sea, and to us. The tallest of these formations is 120 metres (390 feet) high. During spring and summer, flights of seabirds near the Shiant Islands catch the eye. Many long-winged seabirds wheel and soar gracefully. Others are more shaped for underwater swimming and fly in direct lines, beating stubby wings to resemble flying potatoes. Some birds nest in burrows while others, like Black-legged Kittiwakes, nest on cliffs. Rather than build nests, guillemots lay eggs on bare rock ledges. The pointed shape of the eggs ensures they roll in a tight circle, not off the ledge to the sea below. The Shiant Islands are part of the Outer Hebrides and located between the Isles of Lewis and Skye. Historically, they have supported families of sheep grazers who could tolerate a lonely island outpost. The Shiants were known as the last place in Britain where the Black Rat occurred in substantial numbers. Originally introduced to Britain from Asia in Roman times these rodents caused problems, eating eggs and chicks of seabirds. A successful eradication program eliminated the rats in 2016, giving the seabird colonies well-earned peace.

Loch Ewe is the only north facing Loch in Scotland, with an interesting history and a fine scenic landscape this area has a true natural beauty. During WW2 the loch was a convoy collecting point with a strong naval presence; it was therefore protected by light and heavy aircraft guns, a boom net and mine defence system helped to shield this precious settlement. Loch Ewe is a natural deep water sea loch that links to the Atlantic Ocean with a relatively small mouth giving the loch a vast amount of protection from the weather. Nearby Inver ewe gardens thrive on the warm currents of the North Atlantic Drift to create an oasis of colour and fertility where exotic plants from many countries flourish on latitude more northerly than Moscow, giving an almost continual display of colour throughout the year.

Gloriously remote, St. Kilda is an archipelago 50 miles off the Isle of Harris. Although the four islands are uninhabited by humans, thousands of seas birds call these craggy cliffs home, clinging to the sheer faces as if by magic. Not only is St. Kilda home to the UK’s largest colony of Atlantic Puffin (almost 1 million), but also the world largest colony Gannets nests on Boreray island and its sea stacks. The islands also home decedents of the world’s original Soay sheep as well as having a breed of eponymously named mice. The extremely rare St. Kilda wren unsurprisingly hails from St. Kilda, so birders should visit with notebook, binoculars and camera to hand.While endemic animal species is rife on the island, St. Kilda has not been peopled since 1930 after the last inhabitants voted that human life was unsustainable. However, permanent habitation had been possible in the Medieval Ages, and a vast National Trust for Scotland project to restore the dwellings is currently being undertaken. The islands even enjoyed a status as being an ideal holiday destination in the 19th century. Today, the only humans living on the islands are passionate history, science and conservation scholars. One of the caretakers even acts as shopkeeper and postmaster for any visitors who might like to send a postcard home from St. Kilda.It should be noted that St. Kilda is the UKs only (and just one of 39 in the world) dual World Heritage status from UNESCO in recognition of its Natural Heritage and cultural significance.

Skye epitomizes Scotland's wild celtic appeal. A turbulent geological history has given this beautiful, rugged island some of Britain's most varied and dramatic scenery. Steeped in mystery, romance and adventure, the Isle of Skye is perhaps the most well-known of Scotland's many islands. Charles Edward Stuart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie, escaped here from the mainland disguised as a maidservant of a woman by the name of Flora MacDonald. The north of the island is dominated by a rugged volcanic plateau, the south by the Cuillins mountain range, whose peaks were sculpted by the glaciers of the Ice Age. Skye is divided by numerous sea lochs allowing continuous proximity to the sea. The limestone grasslands of the south are the home of sheep and cattle. Scattered about are ruins of crofts, small holdings used for grazing; they were abandoned as their owners fell into poverty due to lack of income. Dunvegan is situated in a sheltered sea loch, or fjord, on the northwestern coast of the island on the Waternish peninsula. The small settlement is dominated by Dunvegan Castle. The oldest inhabited castle in Scotland, it has been the seat of the chiefs of the Clan MacLeod for the past 700 years. The castle offers insights into Scotland's clan spirit with paintings and relics from the MacLeod Clan. The castle gardens were originally laid out in the 18th century and are of considerable interest with the woodland glades, shimmering pools and a multitude of rhododendrons. Loch Dunvegan is home to a seal colony; the two main varieties are the brown seal and the great gray Atlantic seal. Small local boats depart from the jetty at frequent intervals throughout the day enabling close observation of these playful sea mammals. Pier Information The ship is scheduled to anchor off Dunvegan. Guests will be taken ashore via the ship's tenders to a small jetty. The road is reached by walking up a short sloping pathway. From here it is about one mile to the tiny village of Dunvegan. Taxis may be very limited. Shopping Shopping opportunities are somewhat limited in Dunvegan itself, although there is a shop at the castle. The island's main town of Portree has a greater selection of shops. Tartans, knitwear, local crafts and whisky are the best buys. The local currency is the pound sterling. Cuisine Fish is predominant in local cooking, along with other hearty food such as thick broths and stews, roast meats, haggis and oat cakes. In Portree there is a greater variety of foods, similar to that found in other areas of Scotland. Other Sites Dunvegan CastleA short walk from the jetty this is claimed to be the oldest inhabited castle in Scotland. It is the seat of the Clan MacLeod. Its rooms feature many paintings and relics from the clan's fascinating history. The castle features beautiful gardens, a souvenir shop and a restaurant. Seal ColonyLoch Dunvegan is home to colonies of brown and great gray Atlantic seals. Three local boats carrying up to seven people run throughout the day from the jetty on 20-minute trips. The boatmen are trained to get quite close to the seals, which is great for photographs. PortreeThis is the main town of Skye, approximately a 40-minute drive across the island from Dunvegan. The small town has a very pretty harbor and plenty of shopping and dining opportunities. WalkingFor any guests who have packed their walking boots and possess the stamina, the Isle of Skye is a paradise for a bracing walk among a landscape which was carved into shape by the glaciers long ago. The scenery is wild and, in general, untamed by human beings. It is also home to such wildlife as the golden eagle and white-tailed sea eagle, which had all but deserted the island until recently.Internet ConnectionSKYEDAT, Skye Telematics Centre, Dunvegan Road, Portree Industrial Estate. E Mail [email protected]. Tel. 01478 612983.

The stunning Isle of Lunga is the largest island in the Treshnish archipelago. With volcanic origin the isle was populated until the 19th Century and remains of black houses can be seen around this magnificent coastal jewel. Abundant plant life and exotic birdlife are now the main inhabitants of the area. Fortunate visitors view the magnificent array of birds especially the great puffins that breed on the islands plateau. One can sit within just a few feet away without disturbing the avian ambassador’s peace. The 81 hectare island is home to many rare and endangered plants such as primroses and orchids. Views over the landscape and across the ocean can be seen from the 300 foot high cliffs.

If tiny islands that resonate with peace and tranquillity are your idea of travel heaven, then welcome to Iona. Almost 200 miles east of Edinburgh, set in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, this magical island has a spiritual reputation that precedes it. And luckily, more than lives up to.The island is miniscule. Just three miles long and only one and a half miles wide, this is not a place that hums with urban attractions. 120 people call Iona home (this number rises significantly if the gull, tern and Kittiwake population is added), although residential numbers do go up (to a whopping 175) in summer. The beautiful coastline is lapped by the gulf stream and gives the island a warm climate with sandy beaches that look more Mediterranean than Scottish! Add to that a green field landscape that is just beautiful, and you’ll find that Iona is a place that stays with you long after you leave.Iona’s main attraction is of course its abbey. Built in 563 by Saint Columbia and his monks, the abbey is the reason why Iona is called the cradle of Christianity. Not only is the abbey (today an ecumenical church) one of the best – if not the best – example of ecclesiastical architecture dating from the Middle Ages, but it also serves as an important site of spiritual pilgrimage. St. Martin’s Cross, a 9th century Celtic cross that stands outside the abbey, is considered as the finest example of Celtic crosses in the British Isles. Rèilig Odhrain, or the cemetery, allegedly contains the remains of many Scottish kings.

Portrush is adjacent to the stunning North Antrim coastline. Here lies the medieval Dunluce Castle ruins. Perched picturesquely at the edge of a rocky outcropping high above the sea the castle is dramatically surrounded by terrifyingly steep drops which the early Christians and Vikings would have considered a very important security feature. The castle and surrounding areas have been frequently used for the filming of “Game of Thrones”. Another attraction reached from Portrush is the Giant’s Causeway -40 000 hexagonal basalt columns that descend in a kind of pathway to the sea. Formed over 50 million years ago visitors have marvelled at its majesty and mystery for centuries and UNESCO has recognised this site with World Heritage status.

Paamiut, in southwestern Greenland is definitely an off the beaten track destination but well worth the journey! The brightly coloured houses dotted around the port bring warmth to the artic scenery. The history of the community dates back to 1500 BC but it was in the 18th Century that Paamiut evolved into a major trading hub within Greenland. Seal fur, whale products and soapstone carving made it prosperous. Today the draw is the opportunity to immerse yourself in such an unspoiled, majestic landscape and to observe the rare wildlife within. During the warmer summer months, minke whales, fin whales and humped back whales are all common visitors and with sharp eyes, can be seen from the shore. Craggy mountains, ethereal glaciers and clear fjords offer endless possibilities for hiking and kayaking. Rare sea eagles - Nattoralik, have made their home in these remote parts and seeing one is said to bring you good luck. Guardians of this incredible natural legacy are the Paamiut people who are justifiably proud of their culture and extremely welcoming to visitors. There is a small museum where you can learn about the fascinating local customs, traditions and way of life.

The Isle of Man sits in the middle, but a world apart, from the UK. It is in the Irish sea almost equidistant from Scotland, England and Northern Ireland. But it is not part of any of them. It is a self-governing British crown dependency. The island’s cultural heritage is Gaelic with influences from the Norse and surrounding lands. This background has produced an island with its own traditions. Everything associated with the Isle of Man is Manx. The people are Manx and the language is Manx.Port St Mary is a quiet former trading and fishing port at the southern end of the Isle which provides access to the rural countryside and nearby towns. One route leads past historic thatched cottages in the crofters hamlet of Gregneash, and on to The Sound. Walking routes cross the narrow Mull Peninsula through scenery and history to Port Erin, a quaint old coastal settlement and shoreline set amongst a rugged coastline. In tune with the yesteryear feel of the island, a steam train still operates on the island, taking visitors to destinations like the Castle Rushen, built in 1200 and once the home of a Norse king.Manx people are proud of their Manx cats, famous for having no or little tail, the result of a genetic mutation passed down the generations. Manx Loaghtan sheep are another animal that evolved on the Isle. These sheep have two (sometimes three) pairs of remarkable horns.And the island is not just an isle of men – the name ‘Isle of Man’ evolved from ‘Manannán’, the Celtic god of the sea.

For many visitors Tresco is the most attractive of the Isles of Scilly. This is especially due to its Abbey Garden which is home to thousands of exotic plant species from around 80 different countries. Plant collector Augustus Smith began the gardens in the 1830s on the site of an old Benedictine Abbey by channelling the weather up and over a network of walled enclosures built around the Priory ruins. He had three terraces carved from the rocky south slope and maximised Tresco’s mild Gulf Stream climate. Even in mid-winter there still are hundreds of plants flowering here. Another surprising attraction at the Abbey Garden is the collection of figureheads from ships that wrecked among the Isles of Scilly.

St Mary’s is the Isle of Scilly’s largest island with a population of 1800 residents and an area of 6.58 square Kilometres; this is the gateway to the rest of the magnificent islands. Hugh town -a beautiful Old town with its own beach, nature reserve and church is the main attractions of St Mary’s, with tiny streets brimming with shops to pick up the perfect souvenir. St Mary’s is a hidden gem, with long stretches of white sandy beaches and a breath-taking untouched landscape. The coastline holds many archaeological sites along with miles of splendid walks along the coastal and country paths.

The picturesque capital of Guernsey proves that you don’t have to go to the Caribbean for white sand and crystal clear water. St Peter Port is both wonderfully pretty and atmospheric, full of blooming floral displays, tiny stone churches and brightly painted boats. What’s more, summers are mostly sunny and comfortable, making the weather something you don’t have to worry about.As the capital of Guernsey, St. Peter Port is where the “action” is found. This mainly takes the form of strolling the cobbled streets, stopping every now and then to admire, and perhaps photograph, the stunning views. Once French (original name: St. Pierre Port), the town is at least 800 years old, with the stone castle and maze like streets to prove it. Once you have made you way up to the ancient castle, make like a local and find refreshment with a cream tea, washed down perhaps with a glass of cider!If the weather is on your side, then surely there is no more invigorating pastime than hiking up to the spectacular Guernsey cliffs, taking in stunning views of wildflowers, sandy beaches and English Channel views. For those who want to spread their wings a little further, the tiny island of Herm is just a 20-minute boat ride away, and homes no cars, one pub, a few cows, some puffins and about 50 people.Don’t be fooled by St Peter Port’s nostalgic exterior. The seaside town has made a name for itself as a foodie heaven, with everything from beach huts to Michelin starred restaurants offering sumptuous, locally sourced fare.

Situated on the south-west coast of England it seems that Dartmouth is a town that time forgot. Pretty pastel painted houses dating from the medieval times flank the idyllic port while the enchanting jumble of streets only add to the quiet authenticity of this very English seaside town. The surrounding 120 miles of stunning coastline and acres of rural countryside are any adventurer’s dream so if your enjoy beach combing hiking or simply just admiring the view this sleepy little Devonshire village will not disappoint. Known for its cream teams (an absolute must) ice cream as well as the obligatory fish’n’chips Dartmouth’s local speciality is fresh Devon crab. Best served with a pint of local beer and a bowl of home-made mayonnaise this local speciality is simply delicious.

Portsmouth is one of the most densely populated cities in Southern England, and is unusual as most of its built-up area occupies Portsea Island, linked to the mainland by road and rail bridges. Although there is a Roman fort at nearby Portchester, occupied later by the Saxons and Normans, there was no settlement on the site of Portsmouth at the time of the 1086 Domesday Book. The town developed in medieval times and received its first charter in 1194 from King Richard I; soon afterwards it became a major naval base. It has the world’s oldest dry dock, and is home to several famous ships, including HMS Victory, HMS Warrior and the Mary Rose, raised from the Solent in 1982. Portsmouth remains an important naval base and is home to a large proportion of the British service fleet. The waterfront area is now dominated by the Spinnaker Tower, 560 feet high, the United Kingdom’s tallest building outside London. Other things to see in the city include the house where Charles Dickens was born, and the City Museum, which contains a permanent exhibition devoted to another famous writer, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, who lived in the town.